Garden Ponds

Planting of the tropicals differs only a little from that of the hardies, but the differences are important. As I have indicated, they are set out about six weeks later, when water in the pool attains and holds to a temperature of about 70 degrees. Tropicals are planted shallower. At Lilypons, they do best with about 8 inches of water above the crowns.

Tropicals produce more foliage and more flowers than hardies, and therefore need more food. Use the same mixtures of soil and fertilizer for both, but plant the tropicals in containers half again as large as those for the hardies.

Tropical water-lilies are also sent from the dealer as growing plants. Their sweet-potato-shaped tubers (Drawing 22) will be encased in earth or moss. Remove this, prepare a hole for the earth ball in the planting receptacle, and place it in without breaking tl1e earth ball. Hold it in place with a stone and cover the planting soil with sand or gravel, as you did with the hardies.

Planting the Natural Pond

DEEP PLANTING

Plate 19. Ordinarily, a fountain looks out of place in an informal water garden. This simple spout of water, however, fits in charmingly. The sight of falling water is always pleasant, and the sound of it has a psychologically cooling effect on a hot day.

Any of the containers I have suggested for pools can also be used in a natural pond. In deep water, where there is no danger of trampling by livestock and where the gardener has no intention of ever disturbing the plants, lilies can be set out in flimsy containers, or without containers at all. In fact, if they are used, the flimsiest of containers are preferred, for they disintegrate quickly and allow the roots to spread and seek nourishment where they will.

Bushel and half-bushel baskets serve the purpose nicely here. Fill each one with soil, plant the root, cover with a layer of stones to hold the root in place (being careful not to touch the growing point). Slip a rope through the basket handles, lower the basket into place, and then pull up the rope.

There is also the traditional method of planting lilies in deep water. I am giving it last because I like it least. This method consists of tying a water-lily root firmly to a brick, rowing out to the desired planting spot, and heaving root and brick overboard. If the root happens to land topside up, this is a good system. However, if it lands the other way, you may break off the growing point or the stem) or bury the root in such a position that it cannot grow.

When planting in deep water, be sure to mark all the selected areas ahead of time with long poles. This enables you to hold to the planting pattern you wish. Once a plant has been lowered, even if the water is only 3 or 4 feet deep, it is practically impossible to find it until leaves and blooms reach the surface, unless the planting place is so marked.