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How to Construct a Concrete Pond

Estmating the materils

Excavating

To drain or not to drain

Placing the forms

Working with Concrete

Pouring the Floor

>Setting

Fountains and Spouts


Let the concrete set 48 hours before taking off the forms. Use a brick to rub smooth any scars from the forms or any other irregularities in the concrete. Concrete does not harden by drying, but by setting. Protect it from the drying action of sun and wind by keeping all exposed surfaces covered with wet burlap sacks or straw, and keep them wet with occasional sprinklings for ten days.

Wait until the concrete of the pond has set completely before you attempt to lay brick or other decorative material around the rim.

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You can hardly choose a poor finish for the rim of your pond. It is really a matter of personal preference. I would remind you only that a formal pond calls for a formal finish-brick, tile, cut stone, or cast concrete coping, as illustrated. A natural pond calls for a natural finish-which means natural flagstone. The random shapes of field stones do not lend themselves to the construction of a pond rim, and I have never seen a rim so constructed that looked right.

There is one all-purpose finish for the rim. You can smooth-finish it with a wooden float when the concrete has begun to set, or smooth it with a brick after the wooden forms have been taken off. The plain concrete rim thus achieved looks well on either a formal or an informal pond.

SECURING AN ORNAMENTAL RIM


Decorative tiles or similar ceramic materials chosen as capping for the rim of the pond will require special cements, which the tile dealer will be able to supply.

For securing bricks, cast concrete coping, or stone to the pond rim, use a mixture of three parts of sand and one part Portland cement, adding water to the dry mixture until a workable mortar is obtained.

If the rim is to be of flagstone, make a series of trial arrangements before you cement the stones in place. Natural-looking stone arrangements are tricky to achieve, and few people hit upon one they really like the first time. When you cement the stones in place, keep the mortar well hidden, for the sight of it will destroy the natural illusion you want to create. If you do slip, cover any exposed mortar with a handful of earth.

Special Effects

Although only flat, stratified rock, such as flagstone, can be used attractively to cap the pond rim, there are many artistic possibilities for rock work in the area surrounding the pond. Well weathered field stones in a variety of sizes, shapes, and colorings can be piled here and there along the border for interesting effect. The rocks are not only attractive in themselves, but provide a natural setting for border plants.

Moss


Here is a simple trick a friend of mine recommends when you want a mossy edging for your pond. Gather a quantity of moss in the woods. Shred enough to fill half a quart jar; fill the rest of the jar with buttermilk. Give it a thorough stirring, and then with a paint brush apply the mixture heavily to the rock or concrete surfaces. Adjust your garden

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hose to the finest spray it will throw, and keep the moss damp with frequent sprayings for a few days until it takes root.

Continue to Fountains and Spouts

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Planning Your Pond

How To Build A Concrete Pond

More Pond Designs

Curing The Pond

water lilies-Past And Present

The Hardy water lilies

The Tropical water lilies

Planting The Garden Pond

Propagation, Culture, And Winter Care

First Cousins of the Water Lilies

Lists Of "Bests"

Accessory Aquatic Plants

Repairs, Maintenance, Pest And Disease Control

Building And Stocking Larger Garden Ponds

All About Goldfish

Goldfish Species And Varieties

Goldfish Care And Feeding

All About Aquariums

Scavengers For Pools And Aquariums

Goldfish Ailments And Enemies