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How to Construct a Concrete PondEstmating the materilsExcavatingTo drain or not to drainPlacing the formsWorking with ConcretePouring the FloorSetting>Fountains and SpoutsEverybody who builds a water garden, it seems, has trouble deciding whether or not to put in a fountain. A few years ago, the question would have been decided for you. I would have had to tell you then that, unless you had a very large basin or healthy water-lilies and goldfish were of secondary importance, the fountain would have to be ruled out.
A constant stream of clear water gushing into a pond from an outside source keeps the temperature far below that necessary for water-lily growth. It also keeps the water too clear, too free of that microscopic plant life which thrives in a healthy pond and which fish need in addition to the prepared foods they get. In recent years, however, fountains have been developed which draw their supply of water from the pond itself, and such fountains may be used with no ill effects at all. Powered by electrically operated pumps, they are efficient and dependable, and can be bought for about thirty dollars. The whole assembly-base, motor, pump, and fountainhead-is scarcely as large as a loaf of bread, and can be set down and put into operation in a matter of minutes. But be sure you want a fountain before you order one. A fountain provides a beautiful sight indeed, but it looks well only in a formal or semiformal setting. It looks terribly out of place in a natural or rustic pond. DRIPSTONES
If your pond is of rustic or natural design, you need not be deprived of the musical sound of falling water. In fact, such ponds can have something which, in my opinion, is even more pleasing than a fountain. The device is called a dripstone. The water supply for a dripstone is provided from the pond itself, by means of the fountain pump just described. A dripstone should overhang, as shown, so as to provide a sound chamber behind the spot where the dripping water hits the pond surface. I can think of no more pleasant and cooling sound on a hot summer evening than that offered by a dripstone. ![]() N. Gladstoniana
One of the finest and most popular of all hardies, for its six and eight-inch blooms make fine cut flowers. Both flowers and foliage stand well above water.
N. Marliacea chromatella Accepted by most as the best hardy yellow. It is so vigorous it will quickly fill its end of the pond with six-inch blooms and attractive foliage, both held above the water.
Rose Arey A rose-pink water-lily of classic form, with a rich, fruity fragrance. A strong and dependable grower, and I always recommend it for beginners.
N. Marliacea rosea This color plate reproduces the hue of the flower faithfully, but the waxy, dewy freshness of the blossom is something which must be seen to be appreciated.
Mrs. C. W. Thomas This water-lily is one of our own development, and we were so proud of it we named it for my grandmother. The cluster of the blooms is typical, for the variety is very free-blooming. It has been called the most delicate pink lily ever produced, and is fragrant.
Comanche The largest of the changeable water-lilies. The bloom opens rose overlaid apricot, becomes darker and more vivid, and finally a glowing amber. A strong grower, and its blooming season runs from early summer until frost.
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A number of other interesting effects-miniature water wheels, cascades, and even windmills-can be operated by that same type of fountain pump. LIGHTING THE POND Among the newest and certainly the most spectacular of pond arrangements are the safe, inexpensive, and practical devices with which the water garden can be illuminated at night. There was a time when illuminated ponds were few and far between. Some of the more energetic gardeners provided for underwater illumination by installing watertight glass panels and the necessary electrical connections in the walls while the pond was under construction. The effects thus achieved were beautiful indeed, but the added touches, which had to be installed by professional craftsmen, considerably increased the cost of the pond. Some beautiful surface effects could be obtained, it was learned in subsequent experimentation, by placing bulbs here and there about the rim of the pond, situating them inconspicuously in clumps of border plants, and by beaming spotlights upon the pond from strategic locations well away from the immediate vicinity. These surface techniques, being both practical and inexpensive, are becoming more popular with every passing day. An even wider variety of lighting arrangements is now available since some of the leading electrical laboratories have developed special lights for ponds. Underwater lights, equipped with waterproof cord and fixtures, can be easily anchored beneath the surface of the water wherever desired. Floating lights, set into floating holders in the shape of lily pads, blend well with the pond's natural growths. A stern word of caution on illuminating the pond: those companies now manufacturing floating and submerged lights have developed safe, shockproof fixtures and proper wiring and connections for them. These devices are the only ones that can be used safely. If you install pond lights, use the proper fixtures ,as directed by the manufacturer. |
Planning Your Pond |
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