For pond construction, above all other types I recommend a simple, reinforced concrete structure, poured into wooden forms. It is oblong or square in shape and is sunk squarely into the ground. Such a pond is easy and inexpensive to build, easy to plant, and easy to clean. Once it is constructed, it is sturdy and watertight, and a pond that a man can maintain with very little attention for the rest of his life.

Another type of reinforced concrete pond is constructed by a technique called "puddling." Such a pond is usually made in an irregular shape, without forms. It is not as practical as the first type pond, but the next best. We will go into construction details for both types later. (See Chapters 2 and 3.)

Although a pond can be built of concrete block somewhat more cheaply, I advise against it. Even with an experienced mason doing the work, such a pond can hardly compare with reinforced concrete for structural strength, and it is far inferior in its ability to hold water.

There are preparations on the market which are guaranteed to make concrete and various types of composition blocks impervious to water, and under certain tests the manufacturers prove their claims impressively. However, as far as I am concerned, this is just another case of the operation being a success, with the patient dying. Practically everyone I know who has built a concrete block pond has had, and is still having, trouble with it.

The ideal depth of a miniature pond is 18 inches. That allows 4 inches for the box or pan of soil in which the water lilies are to be planted, 12 inches of water to cover the crowns of the roots, and 2 inches to spare. A pond filled to brimming is not as attractive as one filled to within a few inches of the top-hence this 2-inch allowance. When the pond is sunk into the ground, an inch of rim should extend above ground level to prevent surface water from draining in every time it rains. The rim can be banked with stones or sod to give the setting a natural look.

Water lilies planted in tubs, half-barrels, and other containers placed on top of the ground will produce foliage but seldom bloom. For some reason-one having to do with consistent temperatures, I suspect-waterlilies do best in sunken containers.

Drainage arrangements need not be planned for any of these miniature ponds. They are small enough for water to be bailed out with a pail in a few minutes whenever emptying is necessary for cleaning or replanting.

There are scores of lilies which will grow in miniature ponds. Among them are several forms especially developed for miniature ponds, and these do best of all. (water lilies appropriate for miniature ponds are listed in Chapter 11.)

Ponds constructed of bricks have the same disadvantages as those made of concrete blocks, only more so. It is impossible for anything with that many mortar joints in it not to have a few leaks. However, if it's the brick appearance you like, by all means trim the edge of your pond -or the outside surface of a raised pond-with brick.

There are on the market a variety of prefabricated ponds, constructed of both metal and plastic, and turned out in a variety of sizes. A man has only to dig a pit to fit the shell of the pond, set the shell in, fill it up with water, and then plant. The manufacturers of most of these ponds checked carefully with water lily and goldfish culturists before designing them, and so have come up with both practical and attractive designs. They work out very well and are, of course, the very least trouble "to build" of any kind of pond.