>How to Construct a Concrete Pond
Estmating the materils
Excavating
To drain or not to drain
Placing the forms
Working with Concrete
Pouring the Floor
Setting
Fountains and Spouts
A glance at the various ponds illustrated in this chapter and in the preceding one will show you many designs from which to choose. Some are simple, straight-sided affairs without any fixed arrangements for planting; others are a bit more elaborate with plant receptacles built into the concrete. Some are sunk into the
ground; others are raised above ground level or are only partly submerged. I prefer a raised pond. The rim of it makes such a nice place to sit while you enjoy the water-lilies and goldfish.
As for planting arrangements, I do not advise permanent, bui1t-in receptacles. Planting boxes of wood, which can be moved around as you wish, are superior in many ways. I will tell you more about them in the section on aquatic plants.
It is unnecessary, I am sure, for me to outline construction procedures for all the different kinds of ponds. Directions for the basic types will suffice, since these include all the know-how needed for any pond you may have in mind. Let us consider first a simple, straight-sided pond of average size for the back or side yard, say a pond 8 feet wide, 10 feet long, and 2 feet deep, with floor and walls 6 inches thick.
It is a good idea, here in the beginning, to decide whether you wi1l use ready-mixed concrete or mix it yourself. In most localities,concrete already mixed
costs very little more than the separate ingredients. If you count your own labor as worth anything, the ready-mix is far cheaper, for manhandling concrete is a job that is even harder than it looks. Two cubic yards of concrete, says a friend of mine who is in the business, is all a good man can mix and pour in a full day of work.
If you decide on the ready-mix, give your dealer the dimensions of your pond. Then he can determine the amount you need.